Original Parts with an Original Fit!

Posts by Lee Walmsley

Sanding Body Filler on your Mustang

Freshly applied and cured body filler tends to clog sandpaper.  Here is a trick I have used to save a little time while also prolonging the life of my Long Board or Dual Action (DA) sand paper:

  1. Once the body filler has cured, take a piece of used coarse-grit sand paper and thoroughly scuff the body filler.
  2. Next, take a handful of fine, dry filler sanding dust and rub this dust into the freshly sanded filler.  If possible, wait a day or so to further dehydrate the filler.
  3. Then, place a new piece of sand paper on a sanding device of your choice.
  4. Now you are ready to begin sanding the body filler again.

Utilizing this tip helps to dehydrate the body filler, prevent paper clogging, and saves the amount of sand paper that you will go through.

Another Sanding Tip

  • When shaping body filler in a concave area (where the metal curves inward), wrap sandpaper around a rolled-up magazine.  This gives added flexibility, yet the length is stiff enough to be able to sand successfully.

Good luck with your body work and sanding projects on your Vintage Mustang!

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

Exterior, How-to guide, Restoration Information
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Re-skin a 1967-1970 Mustang Fastback Trap Door

Often times Mustang Fastback trap doors (trunk access doors) have speaker holes cut in them.  Many people want to restore the trap door to it’s original condition, without speaker holes.  But how do you re-skin the trap door to properly repair this modification?  This guide is written to provide you with some tips for doing just this.  Please remember to indicate below if this guide is helpful to you!

Tools Needed

  • Spot Weld Driller
  • Drill
  • Hammer
  • Chisel
  • Pliers
  • Door Skinning Pliers
  • Felt Tip Marker
  • Metal Brake (optional)
  • Dolly

The Process

  1. Determine if the trap door frame has been cut.
    If the frame has been cut, we do not recommend you re-skin it.  Since the frame has been cut, the part is pretty much useless.  However, you could obtain a reproduction trap door and replace the reproduction skin with an original skin piece.  Why would you want to replace the reproduction skin?  Because the reproduction trap door skin texture does not come close to matching the original texture pattern, but the frame is okay to use.  If you are interested in doing this, proceed to Step 2.
    If the trap door frame has not been cut, you will be able to use your original trap door frame to apply an original skin piece.  Proceed to Step 2.
  2. Obtain an original skin piece.
    Where do you find an original skin piece?  Not all Mustang Fastbacks came with a trap door.  Some were equipped with an attached textured metal panel (skin piece) instead of the trap door.  You will want to find one of these textured metal skin pieces for use as your trap door skin.  Original metal skin pieces can ONLY come from a 1967 or 1968 Fastback that did not come equipped with a trap door.
  3. Compare the textured metal skin piece to the trap door skin.
    Lay both the trap door and the metal skin piece upside down to compare them.  They should be identical, with the exception of the skin piece not having the frame around it.
  4. Remove the damaged trap door skin.
    Using your spot weld driller, drill the few necessary spot welds that hold the skin to the frame (for more information, see our Drilling Spot Welds for a Unibody Panel Replacement guide).  Now, using your hammer, chisel and pliers, separate the metal skin piece from the frame by prying the edges of the skin that hold it to the frame.  This will remove the damaged metal skin piece from the trap door frame.
  5. Replace metal skin piece on frame.
    Carefully place the frame onto the backside of the replacement skin piece.  Center the frame evenly onto the skin piece.  Using a felt tip marker, mark the edges of the frame onto the skin piece.  You will now need to begin to bend the edges of the replacement skin piece around the edges of the frame, just like the original one used to be.  This can be expedited by pre-bending the edges of the replacement skin with a metal brake (a metal bending tool).  Pre-bend the edges to 90 degree angles.  Place the trap door frame into the prepared skin using your door skinning tool or pliers.  Completely pinch the trap door skin around the frame.  If additional tightening is necessary, use your hammer and dolly (a metal block that is used in conjunction with a hammer for straightening).
  6. Spot weld the skin to the frame.
    This step is optional, depending upon the results you want to achieve.  If you choose to spot weld the skin to the frame, spot weld the folded edges of the replacement skin to the frame as necessary.
    Your trap door is now ready to be stripped and refinished!  Trap doors are a nice option on a Classic Mustang Fastback or Shelby.  Utilizing these tips, you will be able to restore your trap door to an original condition while having a texture that matches the rest of the interior.

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

How-to guide, Interior, Restoration Information
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Quickly Clean your Mustang Nuts, Bolts and Brackets

I have discovered an amazingly easy way to way to clean a lot of small parts with very little effort.  If you own or have access to a cement mixer, this tip will be very useful to you.  The cement mixer, combined with sand-blasting sand, will automatically clean your parts for you!

Materials Needed

  • Cement Mixer
  • 1 bag (100 pounds) of sand-blasing sand
  • 2 five-gallon buckets (1 for parts, 1 for sand)
  • 1 section (1/4″ to 1/2″ mesh) chicken wire or comparable screening device

The Process

This process works well when cleaning heavy duty parts such as nuts, bolts, brackets, clips, rubber bumpers and bushings, spring plates, motor mounts and other comparable items.

  1. Start up the cement mixer.
  2. Pour in the parts to be cleaned.
  3. Pour in 1 bag (100 pounds) of sand-blasting sand.
  4. Lower the angle of the cement mixer down, keeping the angle of the mixer high enough so that the contents do not spill out, but low enough to thoroughly agitate the contents.
  5. Allow the cement mixer to run for approximately 4 hours.  Four hours should be adequate time for general cleaning.  Additional time may be required for cleaning excessively dirty parts.
  6. Place an empty five-gallon bucket under the mixer.  Using a strainer (chicken wire or screening device), slowly tip the cement mixer to allow the sand to fall through the strainer, leaving the parts on top of the strainer.

You have cleaned your parts without all the tedious work!  A “set-it and forget-it” process that yields great results.

PLEASE NOTE:  Do not attempt to clean delicate parts using this method.  Items such as horns, trim pieces, and brass parts will be ruined if you attempt to clean them this way.

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

Exterior, How-to guide, Restoration Information

Locating Spot Welds for a Unibody Panel Replacement

Drilling spot welds is an important step of the body panel replacement restoration process.  But, often times spot welds are difficult to locate.  Perhaps the vehicle is severely rusted or perhaps it has been painted several times.  Both rust and paint can cover up spot welds.  This guide will give some tips on how to locate seemingly invisible spot welds.

Tools Needed

Course Sand Paper:  40 grit or lower

  • Wire Brush
  • Flashlight
  • Chalk
  • Hammer
  • Flat Metal Chisel

Tips for locating spot welds

Spot welds can be covered with rust or paint.  Use these tips for finding them:

  • By hand, run course sandpaper over welded flange areas a few times.   This will remove rust and/or paint along the flanged areas but will leave traces of paint and/or rust within the low areas.  These low areas are the spot welds.
  • Run a wire brush over the welded area a few times.  This will yield similar results as using sandpaper.  The rust and/or paint along the flanged areas will remain and traces of rust and/or paint will remain within the low areas, or spot weld areas.
  • In a dim-lit setting, shine a flashlight at a very low angle along the welded flange.  Doing so will, in some cases, cast a shadow at each spot weld.  Then, mark this area with chalk.

Most spot welds are discovered by using the previously described methods.  In case there are additional welds that are undetected, try this tip:

  • Using your hammer and chisel, begin to remove the panel by laying the flat edge of the chisel between the panels and gently hammering until the chisel comes to a stop.  Often times, it is hitting the spot weld.

Now that you have located all of the spot welds, you are ready to drill the spot welds.  Please see our guides on Drilling Spot Welds for a Unibody Panel Replacement and Unibody Panel Replacement for more helpful tips.

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

Exterior, How-to guide, Restoration Information
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Drilling Spot Welds for a Unibody Panel Replacement

Drilling spot welds to remove unibody panels such as your cowl, rear quarter panel, floor pans and wheel wells can be tedious, but it is a fairly straightforward process.  This guide will help you tackle spot weld drilling like a pro.  Please remember to indicate below if this guide is helpful to you!

Tools Needed

  • Sand Paper and/or Wire Brush
  • Drill
  • Pilot Drill Bit: 1/8″ diameter
  • Spot Weld Cutter: 3/8″ diameter
  • Heavy Oil
  • Hammer
  • Flat Metal Chisel

Spot Weld Drilling Process

  1. Locate the spot welds needing removal
    This is done by looking for small, round depressions located every few inches where the body panel is attached to the vehicle.  If your vehicle is severely rusted or has been painted several times, these welds can be difficult to locate.  You would then need to clean the spot weld areas with sand paper or a wire brush to locate the welds.  Please see our  Locating Spot Welds for a Unibody Panel Replacement guide for more information.
    The drill bit is pointing at the small depression/spot weld.

    The drill bit is pointing at the small depression/spot weld.

  2. Using your 1/8″ drill bit, drill a pilot hole through the center of each weld
    A pilot hole is a centering hole for the spot weld cutter.  Helpful tip:  Dip the tip of your drill bit in heavy oil prior to drilling each spot weld.  This will prolong the life of your drill bit.
    This picture shows the pilot hole being drilled.

    This picture shows the pilot hole being drilled.

  3. Once all pilot holes are drilled, use your spot weld cutter to drill a hole through each spot weld.
    Using a specialized weld cutter minimizes the damage to the panel underneath the panel being removed.  When drilling with the weld cutter, only drill deep enough to remove the desired panel.  When I drill a weld, I watch the drilling area change from clean metal to light surface rust.  This would indicate that I have just reached an area between the sheet metal panels.  At this time, there is usually a little “poof” of rust dust.  I stop at this point, since I know I have just drilled through the first panel without over-cutting the second panel.
    Here is one style of weld cutter.  This is a sheet metal bit, 3/8" size.

    Here is one style of weld cutter.  This is a sheet metal bit, 3/8″ size.

    Here is the weld cutter at work, drilling the top layer of the spot weld.

    Here is the weld cutter at work, drilling the top layer of the spot weld.

    The weld is drilled!

    The weld is drilled!


  4. After all welds have been drilled, carefully use your hammer and flat chisel to separate the panels.
    This is done by laying the flat edge of the chisel between the panels and gently hammering to loosen any bits of weld that were not cut by the drill.
  5. Now that your panel is removed, you are ready for the next process.  Please see our Patch Panel Installation – Unibody Panel Replacement Guide for further information.

You are on your way to spot weld drilling!  I have drilled over 5,000 spot welds throughout the last 15 years and I will probably drill 5,000 more in this year alone!

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

Exterior, How-to guide, Restoration Information
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1965-1973 Ford Mustang Headliner Installation

Installing a new headliner into your Mustang is probably your first step when restoring your vehicle.  Use this “how-to” guide to help during this installation process.  I have installed many headliners and used to install headliners using clamps until I came across a new trick of using cut up pieces of windlace instead of clamps.  I’ve found that this way is much easier and tends to yield better results.  Installing a headliner should not be intimidating.  You can save a few hundred dollars by doing the installation yourself, while at the same time fostering the pride of completing this task all on your own.

Materials

  • Headliner
  • Sharp Scissors
  • Razor Blade or Sharp Knife
  • 3M Spray Adhesive
  • 32 Pieces of Cut Up OLD Windlace (cut into 2″ pieces)
  • New Windlace Strips

Definitions

  • Bow– the metal rods that hold the headliner against the roof of the car.  Mustang Coupes generally have four bows, while Mustang Fastbacks generally have three bows.
  • Windlace – the long plastic trim cap that runs alongside the door glass seal on the body.
  • Moonskin – the texture of the headliner material.
  • Roof Rail – the part of the roof frame where the headliner bows insert into.

Installation steps:

For best results, remove the windshield, rear window and weather stripping channel in the door openings.  It is VERY difficult to tuck and secure a headliner without removing the glass (besides, it will look horrible and have wrinkles if this is attempted).

  1. Before starting, lay your new headliner flat to remove any folds or wrinkles.  It may help to lay it in the sunshine to make it more pliable.
  2. Completely remove the old headliner, while taking note of exactly where the headliner bows are placed (this information will help you when installing the new headliner).  SPECIAL NOTE – it is important to know that each bow may vary a little in length and curve.  It may help to number the bows as you remove them and assign a numerical number from front-to-rear, while laying the bows in the order that you will insert them again into your new headliner.
  3. If the old insulation pad is still intact and in good condition, you may reuse it (depending upon your degree of restoration, you may choose to reuse the pad or purchase a new one).  If the pad falls apart, find a new insulation pad and securely glue it in place by spraying both the pad and the roof with 3M Spray Adhesive.
  4. While using your metal headliner bows that you have numbered from front-to-rear, begin with the forward-most bow piece and slide the metal headliner bows into the forward most sleeve of the new headliner.  Repeat the same steps with the other numbered bows, continuing to work from front-to-rear.
  5. After all bows have been inserted and CENTERED into the headliner sleeves, trim the excess sleeve material back, exposing about two inches of both ends of all the bows.  When trimming, just trim the excess SLEEVE material…DO NOT TRIM THE MOONSKIN YET!

    6. DSC01020 DSC01022


  6. Next, begin to insert the headliner into the vehicle, starting with the rear bow.  Insert the rear bow into the holes of the roof rail.  Then insert the other bows into their corresponding holes of the roof rail.  Your headliner will be “baggy” and hanging at this point.  The bows are hanging downward.
  7. Beginning with the front bow, rotate the bow so that it is snug against the ceiling of the vehicle.  Repeat this step, working from front-to-rear, until all bows are snug against the ceiling of the vehicle and are no longer “baggy”.  The bows are now upright and in the correct position.
  8. Working with the rear bow, hook the center of the bow with the two springs that connect to the rear window opening (you probably noticed these two springs when you removed your old headliner).  SPECIAL NOTE – If the two springs are in poor condition, find a suitable replacement (I have actually used spring steel wire and cut and bent it to fit as a replacement).DSC01028
  9. Now it is time to begin to stretch your headliner.  This is where the old cut up pieces of windlace comes in handy!  Starting in the center of the front windshield opening, pull the headliner material gently through the windshield opening, holding it on the roof, and secure it with a few pieces of windlace.  This is done by pushing a piece of windlace (using the channeled groove) onto the sheet metal edge of the window opening.  This will hold the headliner securely to the sheet metal.  Repeat this step at the rear window opening, again using windlace to secure the headliner to the sheet metal.  Best results are achieved when using approximately eight pieces of evenly spaced windlace at both the front and rear windshield areas.
    DSC01032DSC01031


  10. Next, continue to stretch and secure your headliner to both door window openings.  Again, use approximately eight windlace pieces per side.  Thus, you have now used 32 pieces of windlace.  SPECIAL NOTE – for a Mustang Coupe, the rear pillar has a metal tack strip that holds the headliner in place.  You’ll achieve better results if you keep stretching and re-securing the rear pillar portion of the headliner.  This needs to be done carefully, as the headliner may begin to tear.  I have found it helpful to cut a piece of window screen, spray it with adhesive and stick it to the back of the headliner where the tack strip will puncture the window screen.  This aids in preventing any serious rips in the headliner.
  11. Do a visual check of your headliner to locate loose or wrinkled areas.  If these areas are present, continue to work your way around the vehicle, removing windlace pieces and gently pulling the headliner and re-securing the windlace pieces.  The headliner should be wrinkle-free, but not too tight.
  12. The headliner is now ready for adhesive.  Remove 3 or 4 pieces of windlace from one area (I usually begin with the windshield area opening).  Spray adhesive on the headliner backing and on the metal window opening edge.  DO NOT ATTACH THESE TOGETHER YET!  Allow a few minutes for the adhesive to dry before re-securing the headliner to the metal window opening edge.  This is the recommended method of the spray adhesive (see the adhesive can for further instructions).  Once the adhesive is ready, re-secure the headliner to the metal window opening edge.  Repeat this step until all edges are glued.
  13. Now the headliner is ready to trim.  DO NOT REMOVE THE WINDLACE PIECES YET.  Using a sharp razor blade, carefully cut the excess headliner from the front and rear window openings.  Leave about 3/4″ of headliner material so the rubber window seals will cover them when later installed (REMEMBER, DO NOT REMOVE THE CUT WINDLACE PIECES FROM THE FRONT AND REAR WINDOW OPENINGS UNTIL THE GLASS IS TO BE INSTALLED).
  14. For the side window openings, have your brand new windlace strips ready.  Remove one windlace piece at a time, while pressing your NEW windlace strip in place.  Doing it this way will prevent any headliner movement.  Do this to both window openings, installing both NEW strips of windlace.
  15. Now the sides of the headliner are ready to be trimmed.  Simply run a razor blade along the outside edge of the new windlace strip.  Do not leave any extra headliner material hanging on the outside edge of the windlace strip (installing the weatherstrip channel will hide the outside edge of the windlace).
  16. The headliner is almost complete.  Now, you’ll need to finish the inside windshield pillars.  Locate the screw hole for the trim piece that covers the seam and cut the headliner so that the trim piece will hide the edge of the headliner material.  This may require some adhesive.  Repeat this step with the rear window opening (that is, if are installing a Fastback Headliner).  SPECIAL NOTE – For a Mustang Coupe (referring back to STEP #10), re-stretch the area if necessary.  The rear pillar of a Coupe is the most challenging area to achieve wrinkle-free results. 

Congratulations! Your headliner installation is complete.

We hope these steps have been helpful, especially using the tricks with the cut up pieces of windlace.  If you are an experienced headliner installer, perhaps this guide offered you some new tricks to try during your next headliner installation.

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

How-to guide, Interior, Mustang Information, Restoration Information
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1965-1970 Mustang V8 Conversion

Do you want more power from your Classic Mustang?  Many are choosing to convert their 6 cylinder engine and suspension to a V-8 engine and suspension to enhance performance.  But what kind of donor car will you need to find that will yield the best parts for your conversion?  This guide will give some recommendations of what to look for in searching for your donor car.

1965-1966 V8 Conversion Ideal Donor Cars

  • 1970-1977 Maverick or Mercury Bobcat with a V8 engine

1970 – 1977 Mavericks and Bobcats have an excellent front disc brake setup along with the V8 engine and transmission needed to perform the conversion.  The rear end housing on these vehicles will fit right in a 1965 or 1966 Mustang.  Donor cars with 6 cylinder engines still have the same suspension and rear end as a V8 car does.  Ideally, however, you will want to find a donor car with a V8, since you will have the proper parts for both the V8 engine and the transmission.

Your 6 cylinder Mustang transmission cross-member is the same as a V8 cross-member, thus you will not need to replace it.

If you would like additional information on converting your 1965-1966 Mustang to power disc brakes, please see our 1965-1966 Mustang Power Disc Brake Conversion guide.

1967-1970 V8 Conversion Ideal Donor Cars

  • 1975-1979 Ford Granada or Mercury Monarch with a V8 engine
  • 1970-1977 Maverick or Mercury Bobcat with a V8 engine.

1975-1979 Granadas and Monarchs have an excellent front disc brake setup along with the V8 engine and transmission needed to perform the conversion.  The rear end housing on these vehicles will fit right into a 1967, 1968, 1969 or 1970 Mustang.

1970-1977 Mavericks and Bobcats will also work, but the rear end housing is a little narrower than the 1975-1979 Granadas and Monarchs.

Donor cars with 6 cylinder engines still have the same suspension and rear end as a V8 car does.  Ideally, however, you will want to find a donor car with a V8, since you will have the proper parts for both the V8 engine and the transmission.

Your 6 cylinder Mustang transmission cross-member is the same as a V8 cross-member, thus you will not need to replace it.

How to find Donor Cars

Search local newspaper car ads, internet websites, auction websites (eBay!) and automotive salvage yards or wrecking yards.  I happen to find a lot of my donor cars by simply keeping my eyes open when driving around.  I have found some donor cars in alleys, alongside garages and in back yards!  Then, I simply ask the owner if he/she is willing to sell the car.

These donor cars are often inexpensive and a good value, given the fact that their parts can be used on your Classic Mustang V-8 conversion.  Good luck hunting for your donor car!

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

How-to guide, Mechanical, Mustang Information, Parts, Restoration Information
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1965-1966 Shelby Mustang 9 Inch Rear End Housing

1965 and 1966 Shelby Mustang style 9″ rear end housings are very difficult to locate, but not impossible to duplicate.  With a little work, you will be able to duplicate this Shelby rear end housing, while saving a lot of money.  This guide will provide the basic steps and necessary parts to be able to complete this process.  In the end, you will be using a Ford Galaxie 9″ rear end housing center section and 1965 or 1966 Mustang 6 cylinder rear end housing axle tubes to duplicate a Shelby rear end.

Please note:  Other Ford 9″ rear end housings may have the same styling as 1963 and 1965 Ford Galaxies.  If so, you may want to try to use one of these if a Ford Galaxie is not available.

Parts Needed for a 1965 Shelby Mustang Style Rear End Housing

  • 9″ rear end housing from a 1963 Ford Galaxie or any 9″ rear end housing that is flat on one side, rather than completely rounded with a small drain plug
  • 6 cylinder rear end housing from a 1965 or 1966 Mustang

The shape of the center section on a 9″ rear end housing on a 1965 Shelby and “K” Code Mustang is flat on one side, rather than completely rounded.  This is why you will need a 9″ rear end housing with this characteristic.  The rear end housing on a 1965 Shelby used a smaller drain plug than the one found on a 1966 Mustang Shelby.

Parts Needed for a 1966 Shelby Mustang Style Rear End Housing

  • 9″ Rear End Housing from a 1965 Ford Galaxie, or any 9″ rear end housing that is flat on one side, rather than completely rounded, with a large, flat, hexagon shaped drain plug
  • 6 cylinder rear end housing from a 1965 or 1966 Mustang

The shape of the center section on a 9″ rear end housing on a 1966 Shelby and “K” Code Mustang is flat on one side, rather than completely rounded.  This is why you will need a 9″ rear end housing with this characteristic.  The rear end housing on a 1966 Shelby and “K” Code Mustang used a large, flat, hexagon shaped (6 sided) drain plug, approximately 1 1/2″ in diameter.

How to make a 1965 or 1966 Shelby Mustang 9 inch Rear End

    1. Remove the axle tubes from the Ford Galaxie (donor car) rear end housing.
      Cut the Galaxie axle tubes flush with the weld at the edge of the center section of the housing, being careful to not damage the weld of the remaining tube in the center section.  There will still be about 2″ of tube remaining in the center section (the remaining tubes will be needed to guide and hold the 6 cylinder Mustang tubes in place, as discussed in Step 3).  Label the center section “Driver” and “Passenger” (the “Driver” axle tube is shorter and the “Passenger” axle tube is longer).
    2. Remove the axle tubes from the 1965 or 1966 Mustang 6 cylinder rear end housing.
      Cut the Mustang axle tubes flush with the edges of the cast iron center section on the Mustang 6 cylinder rear end.  Deburr the freshly cut edges (grind the edges smooth) on the axle tubes for ease of fitting.
      Please note:  when these tubes are reinstalled, they will need further trimming to achieve proper length and center section offset (this is explained in Step 4).
    3. Insert the 6 cylinder Mustang axle tubes into the Galaxie center section.
      Slide the 6 cylinder Mustang tubes into the remainder of the Galaxie tubes.  Push the tubes inward until the proper rear end housing width is achieved.  Remember to insert the tubes according to the “Driver” or “Passenger” label on the center section.   Once the tubes are  inserted to the proper overall width, use chalk to mark them at the center section weld.  Once chalk marked, remove the tubes.
    4. Trim the Mustang axle tubes to the appropriate length.
      Measure the Galaxie center section from the location that the Galaxie axle tubes were cut to the inside end of the original Galaxie axle tube.  This measurement should be about 2″.  Using this measurement, add this amount to the chalk mark on the Mustang axle tube.  Now, cut the tube even at this newly measured point.  Repeat this process with the other axle tube.
      Please note:  the inside end of the Mustang axle tube should be even with the inside end of the remainder of the Galaxie axle tube.
    5. Reassemble the rear end.
      Using a flat level surface, set the Galaxie center section down and firmly brace it.  Insert the Mustang axle tubes to the proper width, being certain that all of the components are braced so that they will not move.  Ensure that the components are absolutely straight.  Tack weld the Mustang axle tubes in place.  Double check that all tubes are straight before further welding.
    6. Weld the Mustang axle tubes to the Galaxie center housing.
      If you are an experienced welder/fabricator and know that you can weld the tubes straight and securely, attempt to do so.  Otherwise, it is highly recommended that you take the components to an experienced welder/fabricator to perform this task.

Mustang Shelby and “K” Code drivetrain components are one of the most difficult to find.  Here is a way to duplicate your own drivetrain component.

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

How-to guide, Mechanical, Mustang Information, Restoration Information
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1965-1966 Mustang Power Disc Brake Conversion

Convert your standard drum brake Mustang to power disc brakes the economical way.  Ford Granadas, Mavericks, Mercury Bobcats and Monarchs all have identical spindles and only have minor brake booster mounting differences.  These cars make excellent donors for power disc brakes on your 1965 or 1966 Mustang.

Tools & Materials Needed

  • Assortment of Open-End Wrenches and Sockets
  • Tubing Wrenches and Bender
  • Air Grinder

PLEASE NOTE:  This brake conversion is NOT compatible with 6 cylinder steering.  If you have 6 cylinder steering, you will need to change your pitman arm and convert to V8 manual steering.

Helpful Tips

  • When removing brake lines from a donor car, MARK EACH LINE, so that you will be able to remember which lines go to which port on the proportioning valve.
  • Most part stores carry assorted sizes of pre-made brake lines with barrel nuts intact.  This will be helpful when re-routing your brake lines.

How to Install Disc Brakes Utilizing the Power Booster

  1. Find a suitable donor car.  Any one of these will work:  1975-1979 Ford Granada, 1970-1977 Maverick, 1970-1977 Mercury Bobcat or 1975-1979 Monarch.
  2. Remove spindles and outer tie rod ends from the donor car.
  3. Remove the proportioning valve, taking time to label which brake line goes to which wheel.
  4. Remove the brake booster and master cylinder.
  5. If the donor car was drivable and the brakes were in good condition, the installation is ready to begin.  If the donor car was not operable, go to your local parts store and purchase new loaded calipers and rotors.  You should also purchase a new master cylinder, brake booster and adjustable rod (sometimes, the brake boosters are fine, but the rod extending from the booster to the brake pedal is 3/4 inch too short.  In this case, you will just need to purchase the adjustable rod and not the brake booster).  Once the new parts are obtained from the parts store, installation is ready to begin.
  6. Install disc brake spindles.  These will fit directly in place of the Mustang drum brake spindle without any modification.
  7. Install the outer tie rod ends into the existing sleeve.  I recommend cutting 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the threaded end of the outer tie rod ends to ensure proper adjustment clearance.
  8. Install the brake booster to the firewall.  This will require some modification.  You will need to enlarge the hole upward by 1/2 inch, so that the brake booster will clear the steering column.  Additionally, you will need to mark and drill holes in the firewall for the booster mounting studs.  Next, lengthen the rod extending from the booster to the brake pedal by 3/4 inch.  This can be done with using the adjustable rod that you have purchased.
  9. Install the proportioning valve.  After marking and removing the existing brake lines from the drum brake proportioning valve, install the disc brake proportioning valve.  One extra hole located under the existing mounting hole will need to be drilled to install the disc brake proportioning valve.
  10. Next, insert the proper lines to the proper ports (you should have marked the brake lines when removing them and now can insert into the proper ports).  At this point, you may need to re-route and lengthen a few of these brake lines.  On your Mustang, the brake line coming across the firewall from the passenger side wheel is not long enough to reach the correct port.  You will need to get some fittings and a short section of brake line to hook it up.  The brake line coming from the rear end can be bent by hand so that it lines up with the correct port.  The driver side wheel brake line will need to be bent as well to line up with the correct port.  The two master cylinder brake lines should be very close, with only slight bending modifications necessary.
  11. Now it is time to connect your front wheel brake lines to the body.  If you are using the original Mustang brake lines, you will need to extend the brake lines forward along the frame rail, since the donor car’s caliper brake hose is located on the front inside portion of the wheel (and not the rear portion of the wheel).  Be sure to have adequate slack in the brake hose and anchor the brake line to the frame rail securely.
  12. Next, fill and bleed your brake system.

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

How-to guide, Mechanical, Mustang Information
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